Morocco’s Fez, often considered the spiritual and cultural heart of the country, is a vibrant destination that’s perfect for a foodie adventure, as we discovered
Marrakech might be Morocco’s go-to travel hot spot, but Fez is subtly emerging as one of the country’s most captivating destinations. This ancient city, often seen as the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, offers all the vibrancy of Marrakech but with, we think, a more genuine charm and an atmosphere as rich as its history.
Where to stay in Fez
With its high jewel-toned stained glass ceilings and vibrant tiles, Palais Amani is brimming with elegant architecture and decor, making it a stunning place to call home during your stay in Fez, with parts of this boutique hotel date back to the 1600s.
Once an abandoned grand house, it has been restored into the chic palace that stands today. Traditional touches greet you from the moment you check in, from Moroccan mint tea served in the courtyard to the straight-from-the-souk slippers waiting by your bed. The calming sounds from the riad’s fountain combined with birdsong from the surrounding citrus trees provide a tranquil base during your visit to the bustling city and an ideal romantic escape.
Eden, the dining area nestled within the riad’s citrus grove, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast is a lavish affair with fresh coffee, juice, fruit and yogurt, as well as mezze platters of jam, honey, olives, bread and pancakes.
Come evening, under the soft glow of candlelight, we indulged in a three-course Moroccan tapas featuring tagines, shredded chicken wrapped in a pastry parcel dusted with powdered sugar (trust us, it’s a must-try!) and a divine chocolate mousse. Cap off the night with a cocktail at the bar before heading up to the roof terrace for a panoramic view of the city.
The Fez Cooking School
Palais Amani also houses the Fez Cooking School, offering guests a hands-on experience in mastering the art of Moroccan cuisine. The culinary journey begins with a guided tour around the souk’s labyrinthine lanes alongside your cooking school chef. Here you’ll discover gastronomic delights, sample traditional treats and engage in conversations with market sellers, immersing yourself in the local culture.
Palais Amani
Palais Amani is a boutique hotel in the centre of Fez that dates back to the 1600s, and has since been restored to the chic palace that now stands. It’s also home to the Fez Cooking School.
Deep within the souk’s maze, down a dimly lit alley and up a steep staircase, our guide introduced us to a hidden gem – a quaint tea room that could barely accommodate but a few people. Here we met Sidi Abdullah, or The Tea Man as locals fondly call him. Operating this tea shop since 1969, Sidi’s mint tea has garnered popularity for its authenticity and flavour.
Sidi whips up his unique blend of dried green tea, hot water and sugar using fresh produce delivered daily from local suppliers. He prepares this delightful sweet tea in a single-serving copper pot over heat. Paired with the genuine atmosphere, it’s an unforgettable experience.
The cooking class
After quenching our thirst with Sidi’s tea, we ventured back into the heart of the souk to gather ingredients for our cooking class. With chicken tagine on the agenda, we purchased spices, veggies and meat.
Back at the riad rooftop, we took in the stunning views of the medina, donned our chef’s aprons and iconic red tasselled fez hats, and got down to business. Under the watchful eye of our chef, we whipped up an authentic Moroccan dish, learning about the culture as we went along. We then savoured our meal with our fellow students in the hotel’s restaurant.
As a farewell token, we were gifted spices to recreate our tagine back home, providing us with a lasting memento of the city.
The hammam at Palais Amani
Before you leave, make sure to try the traditional hammam (Arabic for ‘hot water’, originating from Roman thermal baths) at Palais Amani. A section of the hotel is dedicated to this ritual, featuring a welcoming lobby, a hot room and a candle-lit scrub room.
Experience a unique spa journey with traditional products including a white clay hair mask, natural rose water and black soap. The pampering begins with a soothing foot scrub and hair mask, followed by a trip to the hot room for soap application and a body scrub (be prepared – it’s quite intense, so expect to shed your top layer of skin!). A body mask and wrap is then applied, followed by a gentle shampoo and body rinse. You’ll leave feeling rejuvenated, with supple, soft skin and glossy hair.
